Permesola

Istanbul is a crossover between cultures, the Oriental and the Occidental one. Seductive and fascinating, it has been the capital of three different empires, the Roman, the Bizantine, the Ottoman. A vibrant city, both during the day, in the markets and the Bosforo channel, than during the night, when thousands of people stroll along Taksim streets. Istanbul is both fundamentalist and open minded: some women go around on their own wearing Prada shoes while others cover their hair with the traditional scarf. Both conjure to make Istanbul one of the most interesting cities in the world.

Maria Sole Pantanella

Getting there

If you arrive by plane, the Atatürk Airport, really modern and nice, is 24 Km far from the town center. Beware of the traffic: it can be terrible.

Where to sleep

Ayasofya Pansiyonalari
Sogukcesme Street
Sultanahmet
tel +90 212 5133660
Nice hotel, built on nine different little wooden houses along Sogukcesme street. Historical monument, is close to Topkapi and Aya Sofia. Every house has a perfume name: Jasmine House, Rose Mansion o Cyclamin House. Every one has a private entrance. The rooms are cosy and nothing is improvised, from the color of the curtais to the rugs.

Where to eat

Pandeli Misir Carsisi 1
tel 212 5273909
Turkish cuisine temple inside the Spice Market (it's closed at night and on Saturday and Sunday, when the markes is closed as well.

360
Istikal Caddesi
Misir apt no. 311 K 8
tel 212 2511042
Difficult to find: it's on the last floor of a quite anonimous building. But from the top you can have one of the most fantastic view of the town. The food is an interesting mix of Turkish and Japanese cuisine. Very trendy and popular at night.

Reina
Muallim Naci Caddesi
tel 212 259 59 19
Fantastic view on the Bosforus. International cuisine.

Hamdi
Tahmis Caddesi Kalcin Sokak Eminonu
tel 212 5280390
Very big, always crowded but very tasty: try all the possible kebabs.

Five must

1. Ayasofya . It has been a christian church first, a mosque after. Built between 532 and 537 under Giustiniano, Maometto transformed it in a mosque in 1453. Mixture of both religious cultures.

2. Sultan Ahmet Camii Blue Mosque). Built by Ahmed I around 1616, is the last of the big mosques before the end of the sultanates. The floor is covered by rugs. As in every mosque, women pray separately, in a smaller area.

3. Yerebatan Sarai (the basilica cistern). Close to Aya Sofia, is deeply fascinating. It has been the city reservoir and the dome has 336 columns. Don't miss the Medusa head, uspide down at the end of a column.

4. Topkapi Saray (Topkapi Palace). Built between 1453 and 1478 by Maometto is the biggest and most important Turkish museum, the Ottoman empire heart.

5. Dolmabahce Saray (Dolmabahce Palace). On the Bosforus, 600 metres long, all made with the white marble from Marmara, was built in 1853 by sultan Abdulmecid as his private residence. Three hundreds rooms, decorated with enormous lights, carpet, antique furnitures.

Day

The Bosforus is the crossover between Europe and Asia and it worths cross it on a public or private boat. Go at sunset, when it's at his best.

Gran Bazar. The market, interesting like a museum, is the biggest suk of the world, with 12 different entrances and 5000 shops, cafes, mosques, workshops. Never ever pay the asking price for your goods but spend some time discussing with the vendor. Alternatively, go to Misir Carsisi, the spice market, full of colors and scents; a visit to Yasar kuruyemis is an occasion to taste delicate sweets, teas, coffes and iranian caviar.
Hammam. Definitely a must. Do not be fussy about hygiene but follow the oriental way of having a relaxing bath: spend some time in the sogukluk, the cooler part, then sweat in the gobek pagi and abandon yourself to the hands of a masseuse, who will brush, wash, stoke and even hit you to release all the tensions. One of the most beautiful is Cemberlitas Hamami, the oldest one, in Sultanahmet. (Vezirhani Cad 8) Men and women wash separately under marble domes. Another very famous is Galatasaray Hamami in Turnacibasi Sokak, with colorful domes which recall a mosque.

Afternoon

Caffè Hidiv. On a hill on the Asian coast it's the perfect place to have a tea and admire frescos on the wall and deco style furniture. Tel 212- 33.126.51/2

The oldest patisserie in town is in the Eminonu neighborough, at Kadikoy . Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekidal prepares sweets with chocolate and pistachios since 1777.

Evening

Grab a taxi and drive along the coast for a wonderful view of mosques and lights.

Eat on the Bosforus. Excellent fish and nice restaurants. Stop in Kumkapi at Capari Capariz Sok; good wine and fresh fish. Liman Lokantasi Rihtim Cad. 21 simple but nice trattoria, popular among harbour workers. Tel 212 1441033

Do and don't

Visit Istanbul off peak season to avoid tourist crowds. Go after mid September or before mid May. Remember that during ramadan night are even busiest and craziest.